Ride On
Mint juleps and big hats. That is the annual image of horse racing in America. Or the other end of the stick, the feverish men clutching crumpled betting slips hoping this last race is going to save them from a lifetime of bad choices.
The Kentucky Derby? The horses thunder around the track and it’s over before anyone really knows what happened. That finishes any thoughts about racing until next May.
The Sport of Kings
But across the ocean, it is a different animal. It is the sport of kings. And kings are a great image, because you’ll need their wallet if you want to play. This sport isn’t cheap.
If you want in, you better be prepared to spend. It’s at least ten grand for a horse, if you’re lucky. Then get out the calculator, because you need to add boarding, training, jockey fees, vets, transport, racing entrance fees …You are going to need that bourbon by the time you’re done.
Most owners don’t do this alone. Syndicates are created to split costs and rewards.
What about the horses? Well, it is an athlete’s life for them for a few years at least, if luck holds.
There are only a few good years of racing in most horses. If you are lucky, there’s that word again, they win a few and earn some money back. There is a tricky balance between squeezing the proverbial juice out and not pushing the animal too hard.
Owners often engage in some shadowy games to play the odds. Keep a horse secret if it has potential. The other avenues for cash for the owners are breeding, jockey training or riding, what ever it takes to get a little back out.
Wild Irish Racing
Irish racing? It is the pure drop. Imagine those mad Irish chieftains tearing across the countryside. Which horse will serve them best in combat, sport or both?
Out of this madness, a pretty serious industry has arisen. Horse racing occupies less than one percent of Ireland’s GDP.
But that number is deceiving. Ireland is the European leader in thoroughbred production. The Curragh in Kildare is Irish racing’s Fort Knox, its impenetrable home.
Driving by, you see a storybook field, deep green lawn, perfect. You won’t see a horse. They’re worth millions.
Kentucky Curragh
Lexington, Kentucky-fried chicken anyone? But there we were, instantly transported to Kildare. They have the same immaculate tarred fences and lush green lawns, the same secretive vibe.
There is a beautiful horsey sculpture in the centre of town too, just like Kildare! This is big time horse country. Kentucky leads the US in the production of thoroughbreds, to the tune of a few billion dollars.
Just like Ireland, this is the dominant business in this area. And, just like Ireland, it is low-key clandestine.
Keeneland
Put Galway races and the Kentucky Derby in a blender, and voila, Keeneland Races. April and October weekends are when this Lexington track opens its gates. Racing enthusiasts and the local characters come out to see and be seen.
It is a walking J Crew catalogue for the most part. There are some of what would be called punters, but not many. The “dress code” takes care of that. Think Derby light.
You don’t have to fork over a paycheck to get into the track despite its old money vibe.
When Keeneland isn’t a racetrack, it serves as the auction house a few times a year for whatever stock is up for grabs.
Lexington isn’t only thoroughbred country. There are different stud farms represented, breeding horses like the Tennessee Walker.
Bet the House!
I’m no master gambler – wink, wink. No really. But here’s a tip, watch the jockeys.
They are as good an indicator of form as you’ll get. They get paid more when they win, so the good jockeys are going to be on the good rides.
The form cards at the track tell you in the numbers to the right how the horse finished in the last few races. It’s fair to say that the horse that has a bunch of fives, maybe don’t bet the house on that one.
Win, place or show means that your horse will be in the top three. That bet won’t make you as much money as on the nose, but it’s safer. OK, done corrupting you, gentle reader.
Man O’ War – Tour the Farm
Bourbon tour or a farm tour? Farm all the way! And this ended up being some farm.
Man O’ War’s stable was there. It’s on a huge working breeding farm. Along with their other quirks, horses do not have test tube babies. They do things the old-fashioned way.
Mares and stallions go courting. But these are old-fashioned arrangements, because there is no romance. Blood lines and matching price tags do the choosing. For all that plotting, there are no guarantees.
Horse Culture
From the dark tarred fence lines to the green fields, it’s so much like Kildare. Blue grass is what you hear but look closer and you’ll see the same limestone that is all over Ireland. It is good for their bones, bare minimum.
Touring the farm with the owner, there’s the same connection to home and the land that you get in Ireland. If you want to experience a good racing atmosphere without the hype, crowds and crazy money of the Derby, Keeneland is a good choice.
You’ll get the hats, the bourbon, and a little glamor, but more low-key. And, you get to watch gorgeous animals perform and have a little “flutter” with your money as they say.
It’s a shame that racing has a kind of dirty rap here. One of my favorites is the annual beach race in Dingle. It’s no big deal, no big names. But can you imagine anything more gorgeous than those powerful animals running breakneck speed down a breathtaking stretch of beach? That’s the pure drop!
