Rolling Through Ireland: The O’Brien Express Launches with a Memorable First Tour: Day IV

Achill Island, Keem Beach, Clew Bay, Road to Westport with great music @DannyManns

We continued the day through Achill Island – Beyond just picturesque, but at the devastated heart of An Gorta Mor (the Great Hunger), Co. Mayo’s Achill Island sent so many to Cleveland over time –  and the rest of America, and England, Canada, New Zealand, Australia … most opened their arms and doors to the island wide devastated Irish population, mostly Catholic, but not all. Mostly poor, but not all. Mostly emigrating on a one-way trip, marked uniquely by an American Wake.

The “choice” was simple in the 1840s: emigrate, never to return – or suffer a hideous death from starvation, as millions across Ireland starved to death. Families saved when able, despite the famine, and when able, sent one member to us. He or she saved, and brought another, and so on.

We say whole villages came to Cleveland from Mayo – certainly an element of exaggeration, but not as much as any humane human being would wish. I am no scholar – simply a man and publisher who strives to be a source of authentic fact.

Before An Gorta Mor, there were roughly four million people in Ireland. After, less than two million remained. Some will dispute the number – but the Hearth Tax tells nothing but lies.

Cleveland’s An Gorta Mor
(Irish Hunger Memorial)

Cleveland’s An Gorta Mor Memorial Stone, erected in 2000 on the 150th anniversary of Black 47,
to commemorate those who left Ireland and blessed Cleveland in word and action.

Today there are around five million living in Ireland, as the country has finally recovered its emigration lost population, 175 years after Black 47. Where did they go? There are roughly 31.5 million Irish in America now, because of then.

Sorry for the sad. An Gorta Mor was not the only “famine” to be enacted on Ireland, but it was THE defining fork in a road that was, unfortunately, not less travelled. Enacted by man upon the hungry is far different than a famine, perhaps enacted by God.

One of the world’s best beaches, named so year after year, is Keem Beach, a small but spectacular place to share the sand and the sea, along the Ring of Kerry. No, the hillside sheep are NOT watching you …

Clew Bay – is bigger, wilder in my mind, especially in the windy climes we bowed to – so after we bowed one more time, we had lunch. Superlatives don’t fit.

The fun and welcoming staff (cracking Cleveland family jokes no less), fresh soups and bountiful, delicious menu options that range across the spectrum of desire were plentiful at @BeehiveCraftCoffeeShop in Keel, Achill Island. That fresh and savory style hit every spot in our group. 

I have a lifetime closet full of Irish clothing from festivals, travel and inability to resist, but I added to the wardrobe at the Beehive. We didn’t particularly want to leave, but Master Driver Griffen kept us on track!

Achill Island