The View From Here
Shannon Relates:
Derry
The Walled City. Home to Erin Quinn, her cousin Orla and their friends Clare and Michelle. It is where the Wild Atlantic Way begins. This is Derry, and it’s anything but ordinary.
The city’s name itself is a source of controversy, deeply tied to political and cultural identities. If you are a loyalist/unionist, the name is Londonderry, showing allegiance to the British Crown. If you are a nationalist/republican, then Derry is used to connect to the city’s original Irish name – Doire. Despite this complex history, Derry delivers as a city that embraces its past while exploring its future.
Perhaps it was the light drizzle that greeted our arrival that made the scene feel even more dramatic, maybe even solemn. Derry is the last remaining completely walled city in Ireland, and the best way to experience it is to walk the full mile around its history.
If you’re a fan of city gates, there are seven to choose from. The walls rise to 26 feet high – you can’t help but feel small standing beside them.
But why was the city built this way? The walls were constructed between 1613 and 1618 by the Honourable Irish Society to protect Protestant settlers during the Plantation of Ulster. More than a defensive structure, the wall served as a constant symbol of English colonization.
Walking along the wall, it is easy to peer out and see modern buildings atop green, rolling hills. Inside, history is protected and inviting. Several watchtowers and cannons populate the view, while landmarks like St. Columb’s Cathedral (oldest surviving building in the city) and the Guildhall count on visitors to be curious explorers.
The Guildhall is unique in that it stands just outside the wall. With its neo-Gothic architecture and striking red sandstone façade, it’s one of Derry’s most iconic buildings.
The Guildhall is unique in that it stands just outside the wall. With its neo-Gothic architecture and striking red sandstone façade, it’s one of Derry’s most iconic buildings.
Inside, you’ll find beautifully restored stained-glass windows and exhibits detailing the city’s complex past. There’s something about stained glass – its beauty captured in time, telling stories in color and light. You’ll want to set aside 30–40 minutes to explore the well-curated exhibition.
Of course, no visit to Derry is complete without a stop at the mural that needs no introduction. Unveiled in 2019, the Derry Girls mural has become an essential photo spot for fans and visitors alike. This is TikTok-worthy. Depicting the show’s beloved main characters, the series offers a humorous and heartfelt glimpse into teenage life, friendship, and faith during 1990s Northern Ireland.
Whether you are drawn to the city to be reminded of the past or want to see what is happening now, Derry will deliver. Come for the walls, stay for the craic – and don’t forget to grab a selfie with the girls before you go.
Karen Relates:
Grianán of Aileach
Just a short drive from Derry, in County Donegal, you will find the Grianán of Aileach, (Granya of Ill yach) an ancient stone ring fort. It was one of the most fascinating and mysterious sites I encountered during our travels, with various theories of origin that stretch deep into Irish history, folklore, and myth.
Perched atop Greenan Mountain, this magnificent stone structure commands sweeping views of Lough Foyle, Lough Swilly, and the surrounding countryside as far as the eye can see. As a visitor, it feels peaceful, quiet, and breathtaking. But in its time, the Grianán stood for power, protection, and possibly even ritual.
Long before the stone walls were built, the hilltop itself was said to hold mythological importance. According to the Lebor Gabála Érenn (The Book of Invasions), the site was once inhabited by Dáire, son of the Dagda, a powerful figure in Irish mythology.
The Dagda, often called the “good god,” carried a club that could both kill and heal, and a cauldron that never emptied. His son’s presence here links the site to the Tuatha Dé Danann, a supernatural race said to have ruled Ireland before humans. While the Book of Invasions doesn’t name the Grianán directly, local tradition later tied the site to these supernatural beings, reinforcing its reputation as a place of myth and memory.
Another theory suggests the hilltop began as a ceremonial or ritual site, possibly dating back to the Iron Age or earlier. Some believe it may have been a place for sun worship, similar to Newgrange, with its circular structure and elevated position. The name Grianán comes from the Irish word for “sunny place” or “sun temple,” adding to the suggestion of pre-Christian ritual significance.
The fort as we see it today is believed to have been constructed in the 6th or 7th century AD. During the early medieval period, it became the ceremonial seat of the Uí Néill, one of the most dominant dynasties in Irish history. It held military importance but also served a symbolic purpose as a site for royal inaugurations, as mentioned in sources like the Annals of the Four Masters.
In 1101, the fort was destroyed by Muirchertach Ua Briain, King of Munster. According to tradition, he ordered each of his soldiers to carry away a stone, dismantling the fortress piece by piece. This symbolic act was meant to break the power of the Uí Néill dynasty, and the site was abandoned.
Today, the Grianán of Aileach is a protected national monument, largely restored in the late 19th century. Though rebuilt, it still carries the weight of its past.
Standing at the summit, with views stretching in all directions, it’s easy to understand why this place was chosen as a seat of power, a ceremonial center, or a sacred space. From the hilltop, the landscape stretches out in every direction, silent and vast, reminding me that this quiet place was once a center of kingship, legend, and long memory.
