By Lisa O’Rourke
When friends ask us about planning a trip to Ireland, Dublin is always at the top of their lists. They ask about the pubs, Trinity, Guinness and the pubs. I am not much help.
We sprint from the city, having long exhausted the tourist sights. Dublin has succumbed to globalization.
The city’s small cafes and shops have morphed into the ubiquitous McDonalds and Gap. Their presence diminishes the elements of authentic Irish culture that we left home to experience.
One day last year, planning a visit and intent on keeping my time in the capital at a minimum, I was told to reconsider, at least bit. I “had” to go to the Wicklow Mountains.
Why? Because there is a majestic estate situated there that is a “must see.” Big splashy houses always make “must see” lists, but they blur in hindsight, another opulent mirage.
The two qualities that make this one different are grounds and location, location, location. The estate is Powerscourt, and the estate is now much more garden than house.
Powerscourt
The history of Powerscourt is deliciously murky. Proximity to the medieval Glendalough Tower lends credence to the story that the estate was once the property of a religious order. What is now an impressive looking house was a damp castle in the 13th century. It was owned by a family named LaPoer, which anglicized into Power over generations.
However, the poor homonym suited the next owners well. After the monks, The O’Toole family came to possess the estate. In the English tradition of “finding” cheap Irish real estate, the O’Tooles’ lost the house.
This was the result of Phelim O’Toole participating in some rebellious act, murdered and then posthumously pardoned. The pardon came on the heels of the transfer of course. Powerscourt became a Wingfield property thanks to the generosity of Elizabeth I.
The house began its illustrious career as a country chateau, with three floors and 68 rooms, sitting comfortably on 47 acres of good land. The Wingfields spent their three plus centuries tenure, pruning and adding to the décor and feel of the place. Some of the biggest changes came right around the Victorian era, which was the Famine era in Ireland.
One of the many Sir Richards married what was either a real lady or a real dose, who complained that the estate was uncivilized. She thought that an Italianate layout would bring some culture to the place. Her complaints preceded the biggest changes to the house and grounds.
The house itself went through many changes. There was an evolution from the medieval castle it began as. The 19th century renovations changed the estate, modifying both the house and gardens into Italian villa in style.
The photos that remain of the glory days of the house display a Balmoral quality to them; deer heads and portraits mounted all over, the kind of place you would ride out of on a fox hunt.
It was such a beautiful place that it was sought out often as a film location. Famously, Stanley Kubrick filmed “Barry Lyndon” here in 1971, using both the house and grounds extensively.
Then in 1974, a fire broke out. When it happened, the Wingfields were preparing to open the house to the public in an attempt to maintain it.
The house burnt down to the brick. It was burnt so badly that the foundations of the original medieval castle were revealed. It stood in ash and brick for twenty years. It was saved by cousins of the Wingfields, the Slazengers who next acquired the house.
They fixed some areas but did not bother to restore the entire house. There is a ballroom and a small museum area. Most of the public part of the house is an upscale tourist mall and restaurant. More about the restaurant later.
Versailles
Whatever that Lady Wingfield was, her vision began the construction of the last great European garden. This is not a fussy little garden. Powerscourt’s landscaping was inspired by no less than ultimate historic “home,” Versailles.
Powerscourt is not as ornate as Versailles. Versailles does not have Sugarloaf Mountain as a backdrop though. The estate is nestled at the foot of the Wicklow Mountains. The Powerscourt Waterfall, the biggest in Ireland, is a few miles away and an amazing sight.
Because the location itself is naturally beautiful, it would have been easy to put in a lawn and call it good. However, that would have been a loss.
Lime-rich Irish soil fosters the growth of flowers like roses. The rich colors and plain old hardiness of the plants is amazing. There are seven hundred different varieties of plants.
Walking out of the back of the house, you are no longer walking, but strolling through a beautiful symmetrical formal garden. There are sculpted hedges and Romanesque statutes in abundance. The picturesque Wicklow Mountains are always in view.
It is a traditional formal European garden, complete with a large fountain framed by flying horses. The Japanese Garden is formal but has a very different feel. The path wanders and it is cooling and relaxing to walk through the fragrant oriental plants and bonsai-like trees. It has a lovely meditative quality to it.
The gardens are gorgeous, but what I love best are the trees. The grounds are every bit as much arboretum as garden, if not more so. The demesne was my favorite, and has a more organic natural atmosphere, less fuss. There are so many huge and unusual trees.
The rock star tree here is a Douglas fir, standing at 202 feet tall, making it the tallest tree in Ireland. You might think that size doesn’t matter, but it does.
Standing amongst those giants generates a combination of feelings. Awe is one of them.
Best Desert Ever
About that restaurant. I travelled with my sister-in-law, and she knows her stuff. She said not to be thinking about food but that we were definitely having desert. She was not wrong. All of the deserts were huge and not one of them disappointed. My Pavlova was one of the best ever.
This is probably not the kind of place that you would associate with Ireland. It is not a country which relies on formality for its appeal. That domain belongs to the English neighbors. Just because they don’t do it that often, doesn’t mean that they can’t though. Go and see for yourself. You couldn’t be anywhere better on a fine day and it’s not so bad on not so fine one either. There’s always desert.
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See More of Lisa’s Akron Irish columns HERE
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Lisa O'Rourke
*Lisa O’Rourke is an educator from Akron. She has a BA in English and a Master’s in Reading/Elementary Education.Lisa is a student of everything Irish, primarily Gaeilge. She runs a Gaeilge study group at the AOH/Mark Heffernan Division.She is married to Dónal and has two sons, Danny and Liam. Lisa enjoys art, reading, music, and travel. She enjoys spending time with her dog, cats and fish. Lisa can be contacted at [email protected].
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